Namibia March – April 2025
We flew to Cape Town on March 26 from Tampa via Washington DC. Our first destination was Windhoek, Namibia, however the best flights value was through Cape Town on United. We arrived in Cape town at 4pm and overnighted in the delightful small hotel Palm House, set in the Eastern Slopes of Table Mountain. We enjoyed dinner at Palm Terrace, as this hotel’s restaurant is led by the well-regarded chef Gregory Henderson. The staff were friendly and efficient; they send their driver to pick us up and drop off in airport next morning. Next morning we had a nice breakfast, I liked that it is not a buffet, but they brought it to the table. We only had time to grab fruit and pastries, and Simon drove us to the airport. A short flight in Airlink to Windhoek and we are found ourselves in Namibia!
Namibia was for a while on my bucket list, because of its unreal landscapes: giant apricot-colored dunes in Soussesvlei, eerie white salt plains of Deadvlei, and vast Skeleton coast, spectacular sites and views. It is a photographer dream. We also like the fact that it is one of the lease densely populated countries in the world.
Michael is an avid wildlife and astro photographer, and we were looking forward to a photo safari of our life.
Because the country is large, to properly see all highlights, we opted for flying safari. We splurged on private planes, since Michael had lots of photo equipment in addition to our regular bags. It is possible also to use shared plane transfers as well. Many Europeans we’ve met there, opt for self-drive, but few people we’ve met could not drive to Skeleton coast because of weather and had to take a plane transfer. You can cover a small portion of the country if you drive and then come back.
We arrived in Windhoek at 1pm and had to overnight there since our pilot was scheduled to fly us on next morning. I chose one overnight in Hotel Omaanda Zannier. Zannier Hotels Omaanda is a luxurious safari lodge situated approximately 30 minutes from Windhoek, Namibia, within the expansive 22,000-acre Zannier Reserve. Please do not be misled by 30 minutes’ drive, since it is only to the gate and since reserve is huge, it took maybe another thirty minutes to arrive to the reception.
We had one of their 15 thatched huts inspired by traditional Owambo architecture. It was luxury accommodation, with king size bed, a/c, natural materials, fireplace and private sun terraces, and expansive views of the savannah. It is all-inclusive with game drives. Zannier Reserve, a private wildlife conservancy managed in partnership with the Local Tribe Foundation, home to a variety of wildlife, including elephants, rhinos, and lions. Angelina Jolie played a pivotal role in the creation of this hotel. Her involvement began after experiencing Zannier’s Phum Baitang resort in Cambodia. Impressed by its design and ethos, Jolie introduced Zannier Hotels founder Arnaud Zannier to Namibia and the conservation efforts of her friends, Dr. Rudie and Marlice van Vuuren, who run the N/a’an ku sê Foundation.
It is as close as you can be on safari and close to the airport. I recommend staying there either in the beginning to recover from jet lag or at the end to rest.
We went on sunset drive with 5 other people in safari vehicle. Just after we finished tracking lion, the skies opened and the strong rain with wind and gust and hail just pounded us. We hurried back to the lodge, and by the time we got there, even though we covered ourselves with ponchos, we were completely soaked. So much for sundowner! The staff greeted us, took wet clothes to dry and we recovered and changed our clothes in time for dinner.
Next morning, the same driver took us after breakfast to the charter airport Eros in Windhoek, where we met our pilot Ian. The airport had issue with water, and I expected dirty bathrooms, but it was clean. The staff were manually flushing toilets. Our luggage went through x-ray but in no way check in was like in commercial flights. We walked to the plane, pilot loaded our luggage and soon we were on the way. It is four-seater Cessna, it took an 1.5 hours to get to Ongava air strip, next to Etosha National Park. The scenery was somewhat interesting with views of Windhoek and lush mountains but then it was monotonous, but there were magazines to occupy me.
We arrived in Ongava and our guide Piri already was there. It was a nice bathroom at the strip 😊. We found out we are the only guests in Ongava Tented camp, so we were excited to have it to ourselves. In the afternoon we went with Piri for a sunset drive. We saw kudu, oryx, lions and young male elephants who were in destructive mode. One elephant broke tree and kept throwing sand with his trunk on himself like having a shower. It’s so much fun to watch it! Back to the camp, nice dinner and overnight.
Next morning we left with Piri early for a sunrise drive. We wanted to see the wilderness at sunrise and catch the golden hour – the first hour after sunrise when the light is soft, warm, and incredibly flattering for photography. In the bush, this light made the landscapes glow and added a magical tone to photos, perfect for capturing everything from a lion’s mane to an elephant silhouetted against the rising sun. The bush felt so fresh and alive at dawn—cool air, dew on the grass, and birds calling everywhere.
We decided to visit Etosha National Park, so we left our reserve through the Reserve gate which is next to the entrance to the park. We went through the main gate – opened at 7am and Piri drove us through the main road. The disadvantage of to be inside the National Park that vehicles must stay on the main road. We saw some Giraffes and Zebras, but they were far away. In any case, we saw some giraffes, ostriches and zebras from afar and enjoyed the view of salt panes. Different scenery for sure than the private bush. It was also more crowded with other visitors. We were spoiled with Ongava. We had zebras there in the waterhole just outside of our room and the main dining area! Upon return to Ongava, I inspected other properties and was impressed with the Andersson lodge. That’s probably where I would place my “less adventurous” clients. 😊.
After lunch and resting, we went for a short evening drive for golden hour before sunset, and saw Oryxes – loved their sharp horns, rhino family, beautiful birds and zebras. We returned to the lodge, more guests arrived, but we still had Piri to ourselves for a private drive. Michael and Piri went at night from 1-3am for a stargazing expedition, while I slept through the night.
Next morning, after breakfast Piri drove us to the airstrip and with our pilot Ian we flew to a Hoanib desert. We had to stop in 30 minutes to refuel on Ondagwa and then another hour to Hoanib. We saw from the air flat, wide-open spaces with the iconic Etosha salt pan, savannah, and mopane woodland. The scenery changed to the desert.
On arrival, we were met on airstrip by our guide William from Hoanib Skeleton Coast Lodge. It was about 30 minutes to the lodge, but it took longer since William took us to the place where cheetah hangs out and Michael took great photos. It was windy, sandstorm, and the sand was flying everywhere. I wish I had my mouth cover. We arrived at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, situated on the bank of the Obias River, overlooking the Hoanib River Valley.
We found out that Michael forgot his refrigerated medication in Ongava so I was working with our tour operator and Hoanib lodge manager Jonathan to get it. That’s what I do for my clients! Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp eight pale olive, generously appointed, tented suites peaked like whitecaps on an ocean of sand. Totally solar-powered, their open design and color palette reflect the surrounding desert. A unique experience beckoned for the intrepid traveler seeking chic luxury in a startlingly rugged and isolated, ancient landscapes. We had lunch and went for an evening drive.
Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is a true desert oasis in a land that seems uninhabitable but is life-filled in an otherworldly landscape of immense dunes and rocky mountains. Amongst the dry riverbeds, desert-adapted wildlife is revealed. We saw elephants, oryx, giraffes, and visited our old friend cheetah. She produced great photo modeling session 😊 . This valley fluctuates between seasonal rivers through grassy, spring plains or dry sandy riverbeds where many elephants reside. Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is ‘clean and green’, leaving virtually no footprint on this fragile ecosystem. The camp was built in partnership with the local Sesfontein community.
The animals we saw were adapted to the desert, they were much thinner. The river was dried out and we saw a riverbed and animals strolling on it.
Back to the lodge, we talked to other guests, there was a Brazilian media company team of 4 who came to work on documentary on the remote lodges. There were a French couple, one man from Dubai and, a British couple with a with an experienced seven year old girl, I was impressed! It was not her first safari.
Next morning, Michael continued to tour with William for private safari. I was not feeling well, came down with a cold after that safari in Omaanda under rain and the sand storm did not help to breathe. Michael invited our pilot to go with him. That day, the water came from the river and the waterbed was flooded – completely different scenery.
Next day, with our pilot Abdul we left Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp. It was a short flight, 15 minutes to Skeleton Coast National Park. Our next destination, Shipwreck Lodge is in the National Park, 2.5 hour drive on the coast. This is our last ride with Ian and we will have a new pilot from going onwards. Skeleton Coast air strip was “busy” there were 3 planes! We were transferred to the lodge with another couple from UK who tried to drive but the roads were flooded, so they had to return to the lodge and take a flight instead. They will have to go back to Hoanib to get their car later. In this area of the world, one had to be flexible. We were warned by our tour operator that flights from Skeleton coast can change, depending on the weather.
We had a lovely drive on the coast. It is much cooler than in the desert. We saw seal colony and jackal eating dead seal… Such cycle of life! We also saw some shipwrecks when we were driving on the Skeleton coast sand at low tide. A deep red hue, like fairy dust, shimmered across the land — the gemstone garnet, slowly worn down by tides and ocean currents before being deposited ashore.
It is hard to comprehend the remoteness and of this location. The Skeleton Coast of Namibia is one of the most hauntingly romantic and evocative places on Earth, especially when you think about its shipwrecks.
Sailors once called it “The Gates of Hell” because of the deadly combination of thick fog, roaring Atlantic waves, and shifting sandbanks. Many ships ran aground here, their remains slowly consumed by the desert and sea, leaving behind haunting skeletons of wood and iron. Famous wrecks like the Eduard Bohlen, stranded inland where the desert swallowed the sea, and the Zeila, a more recent wreck still relatively intact offshore near Henties Bay, stand as symbols of time’s slow but relentless power. There are stories that the ancient San gave it the name “the Land God Made in Anger”.
Swedish explorer Charles John Andersson stated “Death would be preferable to banishment to such a country”; certainly, for the humans that escaped wrecked vessels with relief, and then found themselves stranded in this rugged environment with no knowledge on how to survive.
While modern times have relieved us (mostly) of such occurrences, the ghosts of the past remain tangible here, and instigate reflection on a time gone by. The Atlantic Ocean and Benguela Current make this area notorious for treacherous waters, rough surf, shifting shores and changeable weather, and often all four seasons are experienced in one day. Dense fogs frequently shroud the area, and your imagination can run wild when thinking back on the sailors that had to traverse these waters.
Over the centuries and through various attempts by explorers to establish trade routes, time and time again vessels fell victim to this coastline. The stories abound, as do the wrecks, giving this coastline the apt name of “a ship’s graveyard”, with the bones peeking through the sand.
And yet, life flourishes. The Himba and Damara people are at home here, and before them, the San, having passed the knowledge of survival on generation by generation. They have a deep understanding of the land and wildlife and live in partnership with both. Their history is a marvelous tale of survival and success, and until today they maintain their traditional ways of life.
A trip to these rugged and desolate shores is indeed a once-in-a-lifetime experience, as you learn of history, the people, and the wildlife. There is much more than is mentioned here, and this experience is sure to amaze even the most world-weary traveler. 
But I digress… We finally arrived at our accommodation, Shipwreck Lodge, sitting alone between towering dunes and the roaring Atlantic, deep within the Skeleton Coast National Park. Inspired by the region’s haunting shipwrecks, the lodge’s architecture mimics the twisted, broken forms of beached vessels — cabins of weathered wood and angular roofs, designed to look as if they too have run aground on this remote and wild shore. Inside, the contrast was striking – cozy interiors with wood-burning stoves, wool throws, and panoramic windows offering breathtaking views of sand and surf. It’s a place where rugged isolation meets unexpected luxury. Our cabin feels like a cocoon against the elements, a perfect retreat after exploring the otherworldly landscapes.
Next day we went for a drive in the dunes, and within 15 minutes, amidst endless waves of sand and bone-dry riverbeds, the desert suddenly softened. A cluster of green — reeds, trees, and shimmering pools — rose from the barren emptiness like a mirage made real. The oasis was a sanctuary, a reminder that even in the most desolate places, life finds a way to endure. We had a great guide Shimi who is from local Himba village, besides of nature, he gave us insight on the locals life.
It was an amazing place to experience but it was a time to leave. We took yet another 2.5 hour scenic drive to an air strip in Mowe Bay and from there flew via Swakompund where our plane refueled. We waited at the airport area and there was a memorial commemorating of an airport cat Cessna who died there ☹.
We continued to Soussuvlei. Our pilot Abdul showed us photos of the sites we will be flying over and pointed them as we flew at low altitude. We saw more seals, flamingoes and shipwrecks. I was sitting next to the pilot and I even got to fly the plane for a few minutes!
On arrival, the guide from our lodge, Little Kulala, was waiting for us to transfer. It is finally a place with air conditioning although I will admit we did not need it at the Skeleton Coast.
Now we back to the desert and to our surprise, we saw that desert colors changed: after the rains the flowers are blooming and red colors of the sand now are green and yellow! I cannot promise this to my clients, since we were told, it happens only once in many years. We are lucky.
Michael reunited with his medication so we are all set there.
We chose Little Kulala because it is right next to Soussevlei park and they have their own gate, no lines to wait. After checking in and lunch, we rested and went for a sunset drive. There was another German couple with us. We hiked a canyon on Sestriem river, and had sundowner. Returning to the lodge, after dinner, we saw another bed setup on the deck to watch stars from the bed. It was a beautiful night.
In the morning, we went for a sunrise drive just for us since other people opted for balloon flight. We watched balloons at sunrise and the site was just unreal. We continued to Soussevlei through Little Kulala’s private gate. Our guide pointed all famous dunes – Dune 45 and Big Daddy. They were tall and people climbing there looked like ants.
We took photos and went to Deadvlei and walked there and took amazing photos. Deadvlei (“dead marsh”) is a white clay pan, near the famous towering dunes of Sossusvlei. It was once a thriving marsh, nourished by a river that flowed through the desert. But centuries ago, climate shifts and sand dunes cut off the water supply. The trees — mostly camel thorn acacias — died, yet their skeletal remains still stand, scorched black by the sun, untouched by decay because the desert is too dry. 
As a result, the landscape is a blinding, cracked white clay floor, like ancient porcelain, Jet-black trees, frozen like ghosts reaching for a sky so blue it seems unreal, ed-orange dunes, among the tallest in the world, rising more than 300 meters around the pan, glowing at sunrise and sunset. Standing in Deadvlei feels like standing on another planet. The trees are thought to be about 600–900 years old, perfectly preserved in death, a silent testament to the enduring spirit of the desert.
After that, we returned to Kulala and went with our pilot to the strip for a short 5 minutes flight to AndBeyond, so close, but on another side of the mountain. It would be a long way to drive… AndBeyond staff was waiting for us on their strip, and our pilot Abdul flew to Windhoek and said will come tomorrow for us. AndBeyond lodge was more luxury, with large suite, private swimming pool, and a special window in the wall for room service delivery. Most of the people were there Americans unlike in previous places. It is a long drive to Soussevlei park though. We chose to end our safari there to see the landscape and it was amazing! As I said, the desert was in bloom, we saw ostriches, springboks, zebras and bright yellow flowers on the green fields in the desert.
AndBeyond has own observatory and we talked to the astronomer but unfortunately the night was not clear for star gazing. We had a nice dinner and next morning went for another sunrise drive and then went to the airstrip to see Abdul with our plane for 1.5 hour last flight to Windhoek. We had a great time on safari and are back to civilization. We said goodbye to our pilot Andul and his plane Lucy 😊 .
The driver took us to our last night hotel in Namibia, Castle Heinitsburg. It is one of Windhoek’s most charming landmarks — a real hilltop fortress overlooking the capital and the Highlands beyond. It was built in 1914 by a German architect, Wilhelm Sander, who constructed it as a romantic medieval-style castle for his wife, Margarethe. The design is full of romantic flourishes: thick stone walls, turrets, battlements, and sweeping terraces offering panoramic views. Today, Heinitzburg is home to the Hotel Heinitzburg, one of Windhoek’s premier boutique hotels. While a historic hotel, it pampered us with modern spacious rooms. Though small compared to European castles, Heinitzburg feels special — a quiet, grand echo of Namibia’s colonial past, perched between desert and city.
Hotel’s staff was exceptional, professional and attentive. The owner Mrs. Raite also came to meet us. And a bonus at the castle was an orange tabby cat! We had an excellent dinner at hotels restaurant Leo at the Castle where we bumped at fellow Irish travelers from Shipwreck lodge. Such a small world!
That concluded our trip to Namibia. Next morning after nice breakfast, we were transferred to the Windhoek airport for our Airlink flight to Cape Town, back to civilization.
Final thoughts.
Namibia is the up and coming destination, with dramatic landscapes and diverse wildlife. Soussevlei Dunes and Skeleton Coast are unique in the world. It is not densely populated so you will enjoy uncrowded safaris and sites. Namibia pioneered community-based conservation, so you can enjoy wildlife viewing while supporting local
communities.
History. Namibia’s German heritage is one of the most distinct and visible remnants of colonial history in Africa. Though Germany lost its colony over a century ago, the influence remains strong in architecture, language, food, and culture—especially in certain towns and region.
Activities: You can do sandboarding, quad biking, and hot air ballooning in the desert, Sandboarding, quad biking, and hot air ballooning in the desert, Stargazing in some of the darkest skies on Earth. Stark contrasts of desert and wildlife, dramatic lighting, and minimal light pollution make it ideal for photographers.
General: It is a Stable, English-speaking country with excellent infrastructure, locals are friendly and English is the most spoken language. Namibia is safe, clean, strikingly beautiful, and rewarding without feeling overwhelming.
Food: We ate excellent food, a lot’s of game, fruits, vegetables, sweets, and while in Namibia the fruits and vegetables not grown, and water is scarce, we appreciated delicious meals. Namibian cuisine is a mix of indigenous African flavors, German colonial influence, and locally sourced meats and grains. Beef, lamb and game are of high quality. The popular snack which I came to like is biltong – a dried or smoked spiced beef or game snack (like Jerky). The fish we ate was Kinklip, very tasty, or Line fish (any fish caught on line fishing rod). Tafel Namibian beer is of excellent quality.
We stayed in unique accommodations, there are many more choices for any traveler.
I would like to thank my local friends/tour operator’s team – Bianca and Wendy for patience with planning my itinerary and meticulously executing it.
I would like to thank staff at our accommodations: Omaanda Zannier, Ongava Tented Camp, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Lodge, Shipwreck Lodge, Little Kulala and AndBeyond who work tirelessly to make travelers and us especially memorable stay, and guides Piri, William, Shimi, and others who shared with us their traditions, and ways of life.
Thank you to our pilots Ian and Abdul who delivered us safely from one point to another.
Farewell, Namibia – A Bittersweet Goodbye
We came to Namibia chasing the promise of wide-open skies, desert silence, and wild creatures roaming free. What we found was something deeper: a connection to the earth, to history, to people whose strength and grace echo through time.
We walked among ancient dunes that whispered stories older than memory, stood still as elephants passed like shadows, and listened to the stars speak in the quiet nights. We learned that beauty can be both stark and tender, that silence can be full of meaning, and that the heart stretches to hold more than we expect.
Namibia, your landscapes etched themselves into us —red sand, silver salt pans, granite peaks, and sunlit coastlines and, once in many years – desert in bloom!
Your people—resilient, warm, and rooted—welcomed us without pretense. We are leaving with more than we brought.
The parting is bittersweet, as all good partings are. I go with dust on my boots and stories in my heart.
Until we meet again, Namibia—thank you.
Copyrights 2025, Sophia’s Travel, EMCO Travel LLC