Borneo Trip Report
We traveled to Borneo, Malaysia, in February 2026 to experience its remarkable wildlife and rainforests. This report follows our journey from San Francisco to Singapore, on to Sandakan and the Kinabatangan wetlands, and finally to Kota Kinabalu and Gaya Island.
Travel to Borneo
We flew from San Francisco on Singapore Airlines. Before departing, we spent a few chilly, windy days in the city, enjoying the food, sightseeing, and a stay at the Argonaut Hotel, a historic 1907 boutique property in Fisherman’s Wharf with a nautical theme and ties to the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park. We even rode in a Waymo driverless car.
From San Francisco, we continued to Singapore, spent the night at the Crowne Plaza at the airport, and then flew on to Sandakan via Kuala Lumpur on Malaysia Airlines. It was our first time flying Malaysia Airlines, and even in economy class the experience was very good. For short flights, we usually do not fly business class.
Upon arrival in Sandakan, our guide Jacky and driver met us at the airport. Sandakan is relatively small, and the lodges are not far away. We stayed at Sepilok Nature Lodge, a modest property but one of the best options in the area. The lodge is set within the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve, about 25 kilometers from Sandakan, and is within walking distance of both the orangutan center and the Rainforest Discovery Centre.
We exchanged our money; it took few tries to find ATM or banks to exchange.
We settled into a comfortable chalet tastefully designed with local wood and adorned with handcrafted textiles. It was quite spacious, with air conditioning, a private bathroom, good hot water pressure, and a private verandah overlooking the resort’s tranquil lake. There were also a few orangutans appearing near breakfast since the lodge is next to the orangutan center. Guests are advised to lock their rooms for this reason!
The lodge had one restaurant serving local and international dishes. The herbal teas were made from scratch using ginger, lemongrass, and other herbs, and were delicious. One Borneo specialty drink consisted of ginseng, ginger, lemon, and water — no tea leaves or tea bag.
That afternoon, we visited the Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary.
Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary
Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary is located within an oil palm estate about 38 kilometers from Sandakan. In the mid-1990s, this 400-acre site was going to be cleared for oil palm development when the owner discovered that proboscis monkeys were living in the mangrove forest. He decided to preserve this relatively small pocket of forest as a sanctuary for the monkeys.
Today, Labuk Bay is home to around 150 free-ranging proboscis monkeys. The habitat is fragmented, with relatively small patches of mangrove forest surrounded by plantation land. Since there is insufficient natural food, the monkeys receive supplementary feeding.
We attended the 4:00 p.m. feeding and observed groups of monkeys at the platform, including both harems and bachelor groups. Occasionally, squabbles broke out and the alpha male would chase the younger males away.
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre
The next morning, we visited the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and watched a video presentation about the plight of orangutans and the rehabilitation efforts taking place at the center.
We then walked about ten minutes through the rainforest on wooden boardwalks to witness the orangutan feeding at 10:00am. Afterward, we continued to the nursery area to observe young orangutans and their playful antics, witness their motherly instincts, and learn about the crucial role this sanctuary plays in conservation. 
One older orangutan was not actually part of the rehabilitation center. He was an older male, around 25 years old — middle-aged in orangutan terms. Apparently, he liked to visit his “lady friend” and enjoy a free meal. 😊
Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre
We visited the Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre to learn about conservation efforts for the world’s smallest bear species. The center currently houses rescued bears that were saved from poachers or captivity.
The Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre (BSBCC) is a wildlife rescue, rehabilitation, and education facility dedicated to protecting sun bears. The center rescues and rehabilitates orphaned or formerly captive bears, helping them develop survival skills such as climbing and foraging. It also provides a permanent home for bears that cannot be returned to the wild.
Sun bears are the smallest bear species on Earth. Adults are typically about 1.2–1.5 meters (4–5 feet) long and weigh approximately 30–60 kilograms in the wild. They are native to the rainforests of Southeast Asia, including Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra, Indonesia, and parts of Indochina. Sun bears are excellent climbers and often build nests in trees while foraging for honey, insects, and fruit.
They are called “sun bears” because of the distinctive golden or orange crescent-shaped patch on their chest, which resembles a rising sun. Each bear’s marking is unique, like a fingerprint.
We returned to the lodge for dinner and enjoyed complete immersion in the sensory feast of the rainforest. We listened to the chorus of exotic birds and marveled at the vibrant tapestry of flora and fauna. There were many opportunities to spot orangutans, flying squirrels, slow lorises, and more.
Rainforest Discovery Centre
The next day, we visited the Rainforest Discovery Centre.
Aside from the Plant Discovery Walk, which features herbs and plants used in traditional medicine, the highlight was the 347-meter-long canopy walkway suspended 87 meters above the forest floor. Nestled high within the rainforest canopy, the walk provided a wonderful opportunity to spot some of the 250–300 bird species that inhabit the area.
The center also features rainforest trails, observation towers, and suspension bridges, along with extensive information about the local habitat. Most animals were not visible in the afternoon, however, as many species are nocturnal. The center also offers guided night walks with a ranger.
I spotted a snake, a large black squirrel, interesting non-stinging bees, and a Mengaris honey tree.
Sandakan and Kinabatangan Wetlands Resort
On the third day, we checked out of Sepilok Lodge and explored Sandakan.
We stopped at Puu Jih Shih Temple, a colorful and tranquil Chinese Buddhist temple built on top of a hill with beautiful views of the city. Although relatively new – completed in 1987 – I was surprised to see such an impressive Buddhist Chinese temple in Borneo. The swastika symbol seen in the temple is an ancient Buddhist and Hindu symbol that existed for thousands of years long before its appropriation by the Nazis. Because it was Chinese New Year, the temple was especially striking, with beautiful lanterns throughout.
After visiting the temple and briefly stopping at the market, we headed to the dock in Sandakan to take the boat transfer to our next destination: Kinabatangan Wetlands Resort (KWR).
KWR is a remote eco-lodge deep within the Lower Kinabatangan–Segama Wetlands, a conservation area in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo. It is surrounded by freshwater swamps, mangrove forests, and abundant wildlife — ideal for nature-focused travelers and safari lovers.
The lodge is so remote that everything, including water and food supplies, must be transported by boat.
As a control freak (probably dictated by my job), I was initially wondering how the logistics of this transfer would work. However, our guide Jacky smoothly handed us over to Omar, our private guide at KWR for the next few days.
Omar introduced us to the boat captain and several staff members traveling back and forth between the lodge and Sandakan, the boat was loaded with supplies, and soon we were on our way. The boat ride took about 1.5 hours, with several stops to observe monkeys and birds. At one river junction we even passed a river police station! We saw a village with unusual tower-like birdhouses that looked like apartment buildings for birds.
And then, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, the lodge appeared — like something out of the Amazon.
We had lunch, met the other guests, and then went on a two-hour river safari.
The accommodation consisted of air-conditioned secluded wooden chalets with indoor and outdoor showers as well as observation decks.
At the resort, we constantly watched monkeys and monitor lizards, which are truly unusual-looking creatures. All safari rides here are private, per couple or family, which made the experience feel very personal.
River Safaris and Village Visit
The next morning, we had an early safari. After coffee, tea, and toast at 6:00 a.m., we left the lodge at 6:30. It had rained overnight, and the rainforest felt cool, fresh, and alive as nature awakened around us.
We saw kingfishers, crocodiles, Blyth’s frogmouths, and proboscis monkeys. At one point, a proboscis monkey actually fell out of a tree! 😊
We stopped at a lake and enjoyed tea and banana cake while admiring the scenery before returning to the lodge at 8:30 a.m. for a full breakfast. Altogether, we had three breakfasts that morning!
Later, we were supposed to have a community experience involving a visit to a local waterfront village and tree planting. On the way, we stopped at a family-run guesthouse where the owners showed us their property and demonstrated how they set traps for crabs. We tried it ourselves. Within an hour, my trap caught a good-sized crab while Michael’s trap caught a puffer fish.
They served us tea and cakes while sharing stories about their lives.
The rain became too heavy for tree planting, so the family promised they would plant the tree on my behalf. We said our goodbyes and returned to KWR. 
It was a very special experience. The family even gave us guesthouse mugs as gifts, which will always remain a wonderful memory.
That afternoon and evening, we went on another combined river safari and saw kingfishers, rhinoceros hornbills, snakes, and fireflies. We were leaving next day.
Kota Kinabalu and Gaya Island Resort
After a wonderful stay at KWR, we returned by boat to Sandakan and continued to the airport for our next destination: Kota Kinabalu.
A macaque even came to the reception area to say goodbye!
We flew from Sandakan to Kota Kinabalu, the city on the western coast of Borneo.
Our guide Jacky was truly a godsend in Sandakan and helped us all the way through check-in at the airport, which can be somewhat confusing.
Upon arrival in Kota Kinabalu, another transfer representative met us and escorted us to the harbor. Kota Kinabalu is a large city and the capital of Malaysian Borneo.
For the next two nights, we stayed at Gaya Island Resort, located within the protected Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park. The resort is reached by a short speedboat ride from the Gaya Lounge at Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal. 
Nestled within Malohom Bay, where protected mangroves meet sheltered coral reefs, Gaya Island Resort rests upon a crescent of untouched shoreline. Cradled by ancient rainforest with Mount Kinabalu etched upon the horizon, the setting felt both luxurious and deeply connected to nature.
From the jetty at Jesselton Point, the speedboat transfer took only about ten minutes.
This is SO White Lotus!! 😊
We stayed in a hillside villa with magnificent mountain views overlooking mangrove forests, emerald rainforest canopy, and the distant outline of Mount Kinabalu.
Guided by a deep commitment to preservation, the resort forgoes vehicles, allowing the whispers of the rainforest and the rhythm of the sea to remain undisturbed. Every moment invited connection to a world that felt intimately and unmistakably Bornean.
There was a beach, pool, snorkeling, diving, nature trails, a marine conservation center with turtles, and countless activities available. For us, however, it was simply time to relax.
Finally, we returned to fine dining! The food at the lodges was good but understandably simple given the remote locations. The lodges were closer to a comfortable 3-star experience, while Gaya Island Resort felt very much like a luxury 5-star resort.
We opted for a kaiseki-style dinner at the Japanese restaurant. Numerous beautifully presented dishes were prepared at a communal table by a talented chef. The service was excellent, and we enjoyed pleasant conversations with fellow diners.
The next day, we did absolutely nothing — and loved it.
We enjoyed Gaya Island Resort, the pool, the beach, swimming in the South China Sea, and the peaceful view from our villa.
At breakfast, we slurped noodles from the enormous buffet, and the chef even offered to cook tuna steak exactly the way Michael liked it. It was Michael’s birthday!
After a few relaxing days at our “White Lotus” resort (fortunately, nobody died there 😊), we returned to the airport and flew to Bangkok via Kuala Lumpur to meet my group and begin our private group tour of Thailand.
Final thoughts
Borneo was unlike anywhere we had traveled before — raw, untamed, humid, and incredibly alive. From orangutans swinging through the rainforest canopy to quiet mornings drifting along the Kinabatangan River, the journey felt deeply immersive and surprisingly emotional.
What made this trip special was the contrast between experiences: simple eco-lodges in remote wilderness areas, meaningful encounters with local people and wildlife, and finally the peaceful luxury of Gaya Island Resort overlooking the South China Sea.
Borneo is not a destination for polished perfection; it is a destination for nature lovers, wildlife enthusiasts, and travelers seeking authenticity and adventure. For us, it was an unforgettable experience and one of the most unique journeys we have taken.
Special thanks to my wonderful suppliers who never fail to to create amazing trips for me and my clients, hard working staff at lodges and Gaya Island Resort, and our guides Omar and Jacky.
Copyrights 2026, Sophia’s Travel, EMCO Travel LLC