On October 28, 2025, we embarked on a 50-day adventure aboard the luxury expedition cruise ship Seabourn, bound for South America and Antarctica. The journey began in Belem, Brazil, a city renowned as the gateway to the Amazon and, just one week after our arrival, host to the COP30 UN climate change conference.

Day 1. Getting to Belem was no small feat, involving a demanding 24-hour journey with three connecting flights: Atlanta to Sao Paulo to Belem. Upon arrival, we checked into the Radisson, which, while more akin to a 3.5-star hotel, is considered the best option in the city. Any shortcomings in luxury were made up for by the exceptional hospitality of the staff.

The team at the front desk, particularly Gabriel and Hilary, provided outstanding and friendly service throughout our stay. English is not widely spoken in Belem, but Hilary went above and beyond by arranging for an English speaker at Casa de Elno restaurant to assist us and helped to navigate the menu.

Determined to try Caranguejo, the Amazonian crab harvested from local mangrove forests, I sought guidance from Hilary, who found a restaurant serving this specialty.  The restaurant was a short 10-minute walk from the hotel, beneath the shade of Mango trees lining the city’s streets. We strolled there, occasionally dodging ripe mangoes as they fell.

The crab was served boiled with aromatics, accompanied by rice and toasted manioc flour. Requesting the dish to be prepared without spice resulted in a somewhat bland flavor—a welcome choice after the physical stress of long-haul travel. We paired the meal with local beer, and for dessert, sampled ice cream made with Amazonian fruit that delivered a tart, lime-like kick. The entire dinner for two, including tips, cost $33.

 

On our first morning in Belém, we set out with our guide Jeff and driver Augusto to explore the city’s rich history and vibrant culture.

Our journey began at the Cathedral of St. Nazareth, a centerpiece of Catholic faith in Brazil and the spiritual heart of the Cirio de Nazare, one of the largest religious festivals in the world. Built in the early 20th century, the cathedral combines neoclassical and baroque architecture, drawing inspiration from the Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls in Rome. Inside, we admired the stunning marble columns, intricate Italian mosaics, and beautiful stained-glass windows.

We continued to the city’s botanical garden, where lush Amazonian vegetation flourishes. The garden offers visitors a chance to experience the region’s natural ecosystems firsthand, doubling as a bird sanctuary with scenic lookouts. We saw a variety of birds and butterflies and enjoyed the tranquility amidst the recreated rainforest environment right in the heart of Belém.

Next, we visited the famed Ver-o-Peso Market, a historic open-air market dating back to the 17th century.

Renowned as one of the oldest and most iconic markets in Brazil, it was fascinating to see the array of local foods: Amazonian fruits such as acai (which we sampled), cupuaçu, bacuri, and tapereba; fresh fish and seafood from the Amazon River, and an impressive selection of herbs, spices, and herbal medicines from the Pará region.

The market also featured diverse handicrafts—woven baskets, seed jewelry, and indigenous art—highlighting the creativity and traditions of the local people.

After exploring the market, we wandered through the nearby historic center, Feliz Luzitania, one of Belém’s most picturesque cultural districts. This area marks the founding site of the city in 1616 by the Portuguese, with its name “Happy Luzitania” referencing an ancient name for Portugal.

We visited the main cathedral and admired the charming old houses that reflect the city’s colonial heritage.

Our next stop was the Synagogue Shaar Hashmanaim, founded in 1824 and recognized as one of the oldest synagogues in the Americas and the oldest in Brazil still in use.

Established by Sephardic Moroccan Jewish immigrants who arrived during the Amazon rubber and spice trade era, the synagogue stands as a testament to the deep-rooted Jewish presence in Belém.

Nearby, we saw the Jewish cemetery, which has served as the resting place for generations of Sephardic Jews who settled in the region during these formative trade periods.

 

We continued to the Theatro da Paz, one of South America’s most beautiful and historic opera houses. Built in 1869 in the neoclassical style and inspired by European venues such as Teatro alla Scala in Milan, the theater was constructed during the rubber boom when Belém flourished economically. The theater’s name, “Theatre of Peace,” commemorates the end of the Paraguayan War. Inside, we marveled at the elegant Italian marble staircases, Murano chandeliers, and richly painted ceilings by Italian artist Domenico de Angelis. The auditorium is renowned for its exceptional acoustics and intricate woodwork, symbolizing the cultural sophistication of the Amazon region.

Our lunch at Vero Acai restaurant featured local Amazonian dishes. Michael had grilled filhote fish topped with shrimp sauce, served over crab rice with shrimp and saffron. I enjoyed Potoca de Paela with saffron, pink shrimp, pupunha, and crab, along with fried filhote finished with parmesan cheese and Jambu—a spice that creates a numbing sensation in the mouth. We also ordered a bowl of acai. The restaurant’s Amazonian-themed décor and attentive staff made for a memorable meal.

In the afternoon, our guide arranged for a boat trip with a local captain to Ilha do Combu, a riverside community just minutes from the city. The boat ride took us through mangroves and floating vegetation, transporting us to a world apart from urban Belém. The houses and restaurants on the island stand on wooden stilts above the water, surrounded by rainforest. Although the chocolate factory was closed, we visited a chocolate shop and experienced the authentic charm of the community.

The highlight of our visit was meeting an Acai farmer. We watched as he expertly climbed tall acai palms to harvest the berries—a skill that impressed us all.

Native to the Amazon rainforest and especially the state of Pará, acai is a staple food for local communities and Indigenous peoples.

Unlike the sweetened and processed acai found in American health stores, Amazonian acai is served thick and earthy, typically with crispy manioc flour and optional sweetener. Locals eat it daily, often pairing it with fried fish, shrimp, dried beef, or tucupi, a sauce made from fermented cassava juice.

Acai in the Amazon isn’t a smoothie—it’s a way of life, providing nutrition and energy throughout the day.

I developed a taste for this richer, darker version, enjoying it as a snack and with lunch. I ate a lot of it!

That concluded the first day of our exploration.

Next morning, Jeff came with Augusto and they drove us to the port. We said goodbye to them and boarded the cruise.

See Part 2 – Amazon Cruise Seabourn Venture.

 

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