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Seabourn Venture — Life at Sea Where Luxury Meets Adventure

Part 3   November 11- December 9

From the Amazon to Antarctica: The Journey Continues

Our adventure aboard the Seabourn Venture picked up where our Amazon exploration left off. Having booked two segments—spanning from the Amazon to Antarctica—we were excited to embark on the second leg of our journey. See Part 2 Amazon  and  Part 1 Belem

November 11-12 – beginning in Rio de Janeiro and heading south along the coast.

The second day at sea marked our continued voyage southward. As anticipation built for the adventures ahead, we received our parkas, hats and waterproof backpacks which were essential for the colder climates we would encounter. The staff provided an efficient exchange opportunity for anyone who needed a different size, ensuring everyone was well-prepared for the upcoming expeditions.

Enrichment and Entertainment

The day was filled with engaging activities and learning opportunities. We attended insighted lectures and participated in team trivia, making the most of our time onboard. Deck time with the staff and a binocular clinic gave us valuable skills and knowledge for wildlife spotting and enhanced our appreciation of the surrounding seascapes.

In the evening, the captain hosted a warm welcome reception, setting a convivial tone for the voyage. Entertainment was provided by a new artist, Brazilian jazz singer Camille Andrade. Her performance captivated the audience with a mesmerizing blend of jazz, pop, and the unique melodies of Brazilian music, leaving everyone thoroughly entertained and eager for the days ahead.

November 13, Arrival in Balneario Camboriu

A day after setting sail, the ship reached the port of Balneário Camboriú in Brazil’s southern state of Santa Catarina. Often referred to as the “Brazilian Dubai,” the city is known for its striking skyline of towering oceanfront apartments, vibrant nightlife, pristine beaches, and modern infrastructure.

Since the ship was anchored offshore, we took zodiacs to reach the port. Upon arrival, we embarked on a scenic cable car ride that offered sweeping views and the chance to walk through the lush Atlantic Rainforest. The area boasted two main beaches: Praya Central and Praya das Laranjeiras, both featuring beautiful promenades, crystal-clear waters, and opportunities for various water activities.

Balneário Camboriú is a premier beach destination, with high-rise apartments reportedly selling for around one million dollars. Some travelers opted for the zipline and monorail slide from the rainforest down to the beach, while we chose riding the cable car to the top and hiking through the rainforest. Along the way, monkeys were spotted—distinct from those seen earlier on the Amazon.

Balneario Comboriu

The afternoon was spent enjoying time on the beach, lunch at a local restaurant, and browsing shops along the waterfront. For the return to port, Seabourn arranged a ride aboard a pirate ship, adding a playful touch to the day before further exploration of the port area. We returned to the ship around 5:00 p.m., grateful for another memorable day ashore.

That evening, guests were treated to a stellar performance by Martín Masiello, an Argentine singer renowned for his remarkable vocal range and versatility across musical genres.

November 14-15, days at Sea: Learning, Leisure, and New Connections

During the following two days at sea, we made the most of the lingering warm weather by relaxing by the pool and soaking in the hot tub—a welcome pause before the journey carried us into colder southern latitudes.

Preparation for upcoming activities continued with a briefing on the submersible, which we would have the opportunity to use later in the voyage. The anticipation for this unique experience built as we learned about the procedures and possibilities ahead.

Enrichment programming remained a highlight, with several engaging lectures offered throughout the days. One explored Charles Darwin’s travels in South America, drawing from his voyage aboard the Beagle and providing insight into the region’s natural history. Additional sessions focused on practical skills, including how to identify whales, dolphins, and seals at sea, as well as the defining characteristics of seabirds. A lecture on the history of Uruguay offered valuable context ahead of the upcoming port visit.

The captain offered guests to visit the ship’s bridge by appointment. This behind-the-scenes experience offered insight into the navigation and operation of the vessel.

In the evenings, a lively block party was held, bringing everyone out of their rooms to meet their neighbors. This event was especially enjoyable, as it allowed us to connect with fellow travelers, including those who had just embarked for the second part of the cruise. The camaraderie and new friendships formed a joyful tone for the journey ahead.

November 16, Montevideo: A Day in Uruguay’s Capital

We arrived in Montevideo, Uruguay, on Sunday, eager to explore this relaxed, cultured, and seaside-facing capital city with its distinct European flair. Our journey began with a stroll through the old town, where we admired the blend of 19th and 20th-century architecture. The cityscape featured a harmonious mix of Art Nouveau and Neoclassical styles, evoking the charm of a smaller Buenos Aires.

TangoOur walking tour included visits to several of Montevideo’s most notable landmarks. We stopped at the Cathedral and continued to Independence Plaza, where we viewed the impressive Mausoleum dedicated to one of the country’s founders.

We enjoyed a tango show in a historic tango bar. The music was captivating, and Michael even had the chance to dance!

After the tour, we headed to the bustling market, drawn in by the irresistible aroma of barbecue. The market was filled with a variety of meat restaurants, each offering traditional parrillas. For lunch, I enjoyed grilled beef, chorizo sausage, salad, and mashed potatoes, while Michael chose a skillet of seafood and rice reminiscent of paella. The generous portions ensured we left satisfied.

With lunch and a bit of shopping behind us, we walked back to the ship. Along the way, the weather shifted as a cold front moved in, bringing brisk winds—a clear reminder that our journey was carrying us farther south into the South Atlantic.

November 17-18 sailing south to Falklands

As a storm approached, the captain made the decision to alter our course and continue farther south. The change resulted in a longer route and the loss of approximately half a day in the Falkland Islands, but safety remained the priority. Temperatures continued to drop, a clear sign that we were moving steadily into colder southern latitudes.

Meanwhile, we continued learning about the history of the Falkland Islands. A remote British Overseas Territory in the South Atlantic, the Falklands are home to approximately 3,500 people, most of whom live in the capital, Stanley.

The islands are known for their dramatic landscapes and abundant wildlife, particularly penguins, seals, and seabirds—and support a small yet stable economy based on fishing, tourism, and sheep farming.

Although claimed by Argentina as the Islas Malvinas, the Falklands remain self-governing under British sovereignty, a status shaped by the 1982 Falklands War. Rugged, windswept, and sparsely populated, the islands present a distinctive blend of natural beauty, British cultural identity, and geopolitical significance.

In preparation, we learned  about Falklands Islands diverse birdlife—from hardy land birds adapted to the isolated, windswept environment to vast colonies of penguins, Black-browed Albatrosses, and other marine species.

November 19, New Island, Falklands

We arrived at New Island in the Falklands in the afternoon, later than originally scheduled.

New Island, on the western edge of the Falkland Islands, hosts a tiny but historically rich settlement on the eastern shore overlooking Coffin’s Harbor. The island supported a whaling station and farming operations. Since the 1970s, conservation efforts have transformed New Island into a wildlife reserve, with the settlement now home to two houses, a small museum, visitor accommodations, and a research station all dedicated to preserving its remarkable natural and cultural heritage.

Wildlife encounters were abundant. Imperial Cormorants and Black-browed Albatrosses patrolled the skies, while a rookery of rockhopper penguins animated the rugged cliffs. Penguins—rockhoppers, gentoo, and magelanic—moved between nest and sea, offering intimate glimpses into their daily lives.

New Island’s flowers are quiet marvels, thriving against wind and salt. Delicate native orchids, Falkland daisies, and bright calceolaria emerge from low grasses and peat, bringing unexpected color to the rugged landscape. These resilient blooms soften the island’s wild edges, revealing a fragile beauty shaped by isolation and endurance.

Along the shoreline, the weathered remains of a shipwreck stand as a silent witness to human passage through this remote world. The experience feels intimate rather than dramatic—rare, unhurried, and deeply connected to place.

November 21, Stanley

The following day, we arrived in the capital of the Falklands, Port Stanley, The town is a unique blend of remote wilderness and small-town charm. Brightly painted homes, classic British architecture, and a relaxed atmosphere reflect the close-knit community, while the waterfront is dotted with memorials, maritime relics, and historic buildings such as the Christ Church Cathedral, with iconic Whalebone Arch stands as one of the islands’ most photographed landmarks. Despite its modest size, Stanley offers a surprising depth of culture, with local pubs and cafés serving hearty island fare, museums chronicling maritime and wartime history, and small shops showcasing wool, crafts, and other goods derived from the islands’ celebrated sheep farming tradition.

We took zodiacs to the harbor and explored the town before embarking on the “Penguins with Tea” experience at Bluff Cove Lagoon.

We were divided into small groups and driven about 30 minutes to Bluff Cove Lagoon. Our driver, June was gave us a lots of information on history and life in Falklands.

Bluff Cove Lagoon is a privately owned farm with a small rookery of king penguins, including newborn chicks covered on soft brown fur. Watching the penguins in their natural environment was a highlight.

We had a tea at the farm with delicious homemade pastries, cookies, scones and their famous Diddle Dee Jam, an indigenous Falklands specialty. The farm also hosts a small museum and shop, providing further insight into island life. We spent roughly four hours on the lagoon before returning to Port Stanley, where we had time to explore the town on our own.

We visited the tourist information center and stopped at the friendly Victory Bar for fish and chips paired with local beer. The fish, locally called Toothfish, is the same as Chilean Seabass and was delicious.

On the waterfront, we explored the principal church in Port Stanley is Christ Church Cathedral, the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world. Built in 1892 from local stone and brick, it reflects a restrained Victorian Gothic style, simple, dignified, and perfectly suited to the Falklands’ remote setting. Inside, memorial plaques, and stained-glass windows were honoring  islanders and seafarers lost at sea.

Just outside stands the iconic Whalebone Arch, constructed from the jaws of two blue whales, a powerful symbol of the islands’ maritime history.

The cathedral also housed a unique Garter Banner once belonging to famed polar explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton, connecting Stanley to the golden age of Antarctic exploration.

After some shopping in the center, we walked back to the ship.

November 22 at sea

Before we go on shore, in preparation, we had to attend a mandatory briefing conducted in accordance with IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) regulations and the Government of South Georgia & the South Sandwich Islands (GSGSSI) guidelines.

South Georgia is one of the most environmentally sensitive and strictly protected destinations on Earth. There is no permanent civilian population, and every landing is carefully managed to preserve its extraordinary wildlife, historic sites, and fragile ecosystems.

We had to go through thorough biosecurity checks. The expedition staff inspected all outer clothing layers and items such as backpacks, camera bags and walking sticks, that have been worn or used before and that our landing in South Georgia.

We were instructed to always keep six feet distances from animals. Right of way is always given to wildlife, especially fur seals and penguins. No feeding, touching, or disturbing animals is permitted.  We would have to remain within designated landing zones and always follow guides’ instructions. Paths are carefully chosen to protect nesting areas and vegetation. Whaling stations, graves, and explorer sites are protected monuments. Nothing may be touched, removed, or altered — history is preserved exactly as it stands. We would not be able to sit on land, and do not leave anything behind.

This ensures that every visitor becomes a temporary guardian of South Georgia, helping to protect its unparalleled wildlife spectacles, dramatic landscapes, and profound polar history — so that future generations may experience it in its untouched state.

November 23, at Sea, Iceberg A23a

As we sailed second day to South Georgia, it became more interesting since we passed Iceberg A23a.

It was calved from the Filchner‑Ronne Ice Shelf in 1986. It remained grounded in the Weddell Sea on the seafloor for around three decades before starting to drift away around 2020.  Originally, the iceberg was one of the largest on record, with a surface area estimated around 3,300–4,000 km² (roughly the size of a small U.S. state or several Greater London’s area) and thickness over ~ 280 m.

After decades stuck on the seafloor, the iceberg started drifting north in 2020. Its path has taken it toward and near South Georgia Island in the Southern Ocean / South Atlantic region

Around early/mid-2025, it was observed grounding about ~50 miles (or roughly 73 km) off South Georgia’s coast, where it remained for a while, rotating and then becoming ungrounded as it continued its drift.

As of late 2025, scientists report that A23a is rapidly breaking apart and losing mass. It has lost a significant portion of its original size over recent months.

According to recent assessments, it has shed very large chunks and now covers significantly less area than before.  The event was celebrated Seabourn Style, with champagne and caviar.

 

November 24, South Georgia

We arrived South Georgia!

South Georgia is a remote, windswept island in the South Atlantic Ocean, celebrated for its towering mountains, sprawling glaciers, and some of the world’s most spectacular wildlife gatherings. As part of the British Overseas Territory of South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, it has no permanent residents, but it hosts scientists, researchers, and conservation teams dedicated to protecting its fragile ecosystems. The island is famous for its vast colonies of king penguins, fur seals, and elephant seals, as well as its rich seabird life.

Once a major hub of whaling, South Georgia has transformed into a globally significant sanctuary for biodiversity and ecological restoration. Its dramatic landscapes, deep maritime history, and sense of complete remoteness make it a coveted destination for polar explorers, photographers, and adventurous travelers seeking one of the planet’s last truly wild places.

On our first day in South Georgia, we anchored at Elephant Lagoon on the island’s rugged north coast. Snow fell softly as we took in the incredible views – raw, remote, and profoundly untouched.

The landscape felt untamed and primeval, offering a rare sense of nature operating entirely on its own terms. In this stark, elemental setting, South Georgia revealed itself not as a destination, but as a living wilderness, shaped by wind, ice, and time alone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The lagoon takes its name from the vast numbers of southern elephant seals that haul out here, especially during breeding and molting seasons. The air was filled with deep bellows, the soundscape of one of the Southern Ocean’s most powerful marine mammals.

Beyond the seals, a crescent of dark beach backed by tussac grass and glacially carved hills, often framed by mist and fast-moving weather.

In the afternoon, we moved Northwest to Hercules Bay, on the rugged northwest coast of South Georgia, is a place of dramatic beauty.

Named after the Norwegian factory ship Hercules, which once operated in South Georgian waters during the whaling era, the bay opened onto a sweeping black-sand beach framed by steep, glacier-carved mountains. It is best known for its large colonies of macaroni penguins, whose golden crests ripple across the slopes in astonishing numbers, alongside gentoo penguins and nesting seabirds.

November 25, South Georgia

Today weather allowed us to land on Fortuna Bay in the morning, Stromness Bay in the afternoon. These sit close together on rugged North Coast, linked by dramatic scenery and one of the most iconic moments in polar exploration. We are following Shackleton’s Route Endurance expedition. Fortuna Bay is a broad, glacier rimmed inlet alive with king penguins, fur seals, and sweeping mountain views.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Morning in Fortuna Bay unfolded in a shifting mix of rain and snow. Even under these moody conditions, the landscape felt surreal and undeniably beautiful—its vastness softened by mist and drifting precipitation. We explored by zodiac, gliding along the bay as mountains and glaciers emerged and disappeared through the weather, a reminder that in South Georgia, even the elements become part of the experience.

In afternoon, we landed on Stromness, a former whaling station on the South Georgia’s North Coast. This site, together with Fortuna Bay, is forever linked to Sir Ernest Shackleton’s legendary 1916 rescue journey. After crossing South Georgia’s uncharted interior, Shackelton, Worsley and Crean descended toward Stromness to reach help for their stranded crew passing near Fortuna Bay along the way.  Standing here today, it is impossible not to feel the weight of that extraordinary feat of endurance and leadership.

For the past week, we have been listening to lectures on maritime history, and I found myself increasingly captivated by Sir Ernest Shackleton’s story. Being here now is deeply humbling.

The shoreline of Stromness Bay appears quiet today – rusted remnants of whaling buildings, wind slipping down from glacial peaks, king penguins standing like silent sentinels. Yet in May 1916, this lonely bay bore witness to one of the greatest survival stories ever told.  After the Endurance was crushed and swallowed by Antarctic ice, Shackleton and his men drifted for months, then crossed 800 miles of the storm-lashed Southern Ocean in an open lifeboat. They reached South Georgia half-frozen and exhausted—but on the wrong side of the island.  With no maps and no margin for error, Shackleton, Tom Crean, and Frank Worsley set out across South Georgia’s uncharted interior. For 36 hours without sleep, they climbed the island’s icy spine, sliding down glaciers, battling sleet and wind, guided only by instinct—and by the faint sound of a distant steam whistle, hope carried on the air.  At dawn, they stumbled into the whaling station at Stromness. The station manager stared in disbelief at the salt-stained, bearded figure before him, scarcely recognizing the man who calmly introduced himself:

“My name is Shackleton.”

The man stepped back, stunned – Shackleton was supposed to be dead.  From this quiet bay began the rescue of every man from the Endurance. Not a single life was lost.

Standing here today, amid silence and wildlife, it is impossible not to feel the echo of that moment—and the enduring power of human resilience at the very edge of the world. We anchored where Shackleton once walked, and retraced the final, victorious steps of his journey—where endurance became legend, and Stromness Bay became a symbol of hope on the edge of the world.

Together, the bay and the station offer a powerful blend of wild beauty, wildlife, and deep historical resonance.

From a wildlife perspective, I find myself becoming utterly captivated by penguins. Their resilience, instinct, and quiet determination feel perfectly suited to this remote world. They look irresistibly cute and almost comical, yet they survive in one of the harshest environments on Earth. Watching them waddle, call to one another, and fiercely protect their nests, it’s impossible not to feel both joy and deep respect. Beneath that charm is pure resilience, perfectly adapted to wind, ice, and endless patience.

In the evening, we gathered in the Discovery Center theater to watch Penguins by Disneynature, a beautifully told coming-of-age story following an Adelie penguin named Steve. Set against the icy backdrop of the Antarctic spring, the film follows Steve as he joins millions of other males on a timeless quest: to build a nest, find a partner, and start a family.

November 26, South Georgia

Grytviken is a historic, abandoned whaling station and the main settlement on South Georgia. Founded by Norwegian whalers in 1904, it was the island’s first and largest shore-based whaling operation, active until 1964.

Today, preserved buildings house the South Georgia Museum and the Norwegian Church, and the cemetery is the final resting place of the famous explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton.

We began our South Georgia experience with a welcome presentation by the South Georgia Heritage Trust (SGHT) and Friends of South Georgia Island (FOSGI), who came onboard to offer insights into the island’s remarkable history, conservation efforts, and ongoing wildlife protection initiatives.

Before landing, the ship underwent a careful inspection to ensure it was free of rats, a critical biosecurity measure. South Georgia has dedicated years to eradicating invasive rats from the island to protect its fragile seabird populations, and this thorough check—lasting over an hour—underscored how seriously these measures are taken.

We took zodiacs to the shore at the cemetery and first thing we did, visited Shackelton grave and paid respects with a toast using Shackleton whiskey. The cemetery holds a total of 28 graves, each marking the lives of those who lived, worked, and sometimes perished on this remote island.

Walking among them, one cannot help but feel the weight of history and the human stories woven into South Georgia’s wild terrain.

We explored the remnants of the wailing industry in a museum, saw abandoned ships surrounded by stunning mountain scenery. There was some shopping in the museum and the post office.

We took a short walk to the simple, wooden Whalers’ Church—prefabricated in Norway and erected in 1913. Set against steep, snow-tipped mountains and populated by fur seals, penguins, and the bones of its former industry, Grytviken is both a monument to human ambition and a testament to nature’s quiet reclamation.

 

The church was a quietly impressive space, featuring memorabilia plaques honoring the island’s history and inhabitants, as well as an impressive library —a testament to the community’s enduring spirit in this remote and rugged environment.

Set against steep snow tipped mountains and populated by fur seals, penguins and the bones of its former industry, Grytviken is both a monument to human ambition and a testament to nature’s quiet reclamation.

During dinner in the evening, the service was briefly interrupted by an announcement: orca whales had been spotted nearby! Everyone rushed to the viewing side of the ship, eager for a closer look. It was an incredible sight – the captain even slowed the ship so we could fully enjoy these magnificent predators in action. After a thrilling few minutes, the ship resumed full speed, carrying us onward toward South Georgia.

November 27, South Georgia

This morning, we landed at Salisbury Plain, a windswept glacial outwash nestled between the mouths of Grace and Lucas Glaciers. The plain is home to one of the world’s largest king penguin colonies, with tens of thousands of birds gathering to breed, molt, and raise their chicks.

Along its shores, southern elephant seals and Antarctic fur seals lounged and competed for space, while giant petrels and albatrosses patrolled the skies. Rivers of meltwater from the glaciers crisscross the landscape, feeding small pools and fast-flowing streams.

Snow was falling at 29°F, dusting king penguins and their fluffy chicks—a perfect, magical moment frozen in the wild beauty of Salisbury Plain.

In the afternoon our ship moved to Prion Island off NW coast of South Georgia. We watched from our suite’s balcony penguins jumping in water for food. Prion Island, located off the northwest coast of South Georgia in the remote South Atlantic, is a protected wildlife haven renowned for its breeding colonies of wandering albatross and fur seals. Accessible only by permit and designated walkways, it offers a rare glimpse of these majestic birds nesting in a pristine, windswept sub-Antarctic environment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The weather was perfect as we explored the island by zodiac, taking in the rugged coastline and dramatic scenery. Photographing the birds proved a bit challenging, but the views were unforgettable. Along the cliffs, we also spotted gentoo penguins, adding to the rich tapestry of wildlife on this pristine sub-Antarctic island.

Today is Thanksgiving, and for the first time in a while, we were glad not to be in the kitchen!

After a day surrounded by the untamed beauty of South Georgia—wandering among towering king penguin colonies, listening to the roar of elephant seals, and feeling the icy wind off glaciers – we returned to the ship. Inside, the atmosphere was a warm contrast: Seabourn’s chefs had prepared a delicious Thanksgiving feast, for us Americans, each dish a touch of home in the remote Southern Ocean. It was a moment to savor not just the food, but the extraordinary journey, the camaraderie on board, and the profound gratitude for experiencing one of the world’s last great wildernesses.

 

November 28, South Georgia

Today is our fifth and final day in South Georgia, and we made our way to Cooper Bay, a small, rugged inlet on the southeast coast. Known for its dramatic, glacier-carved cliffs and remote location, Cooper Bay is one of the island’s most vibrant ecological hotspots. Steep, tussac-covered slopes host large colonies of macaroni penguins, while the beaches and rocky outcrops are frequented by Antarctic fur seals and elephant seals.

The surrounding waters are rich feeding grounds for giant petrels, Antarctic terns, and other seabirds. Accessible primarily by zodiac from expedition vessels, Cooper Bay provides an intimate window into South Georgia’s wild, windswept character and its remarkable biodiversity—a fitting farewell to this extraordinary island.

November 29-30, at sea 

We continued en route to Antarctica, with a 2.5-day sail ahead. Originally planned as a 2-day crossing, we’ve added an extra half day to detour around heavy sea ice, which was blocking parts of our route.

Looking back, we feel particularly fortunate in South Georgia—typically, about one-third of planned activities get canceled due to weather or conditions, but we were able to visit all sites as scheduled.

It has been an incredible, uninterrupted experience, and we carry those memories with us as we head toward the Antarctic wilderness.

We arrived Antarctica on the evening of November 30.

December 1, Antarctica

The early sun in Antarctica made its subtle appearance around 5:00 AM, casting a golden glow over the icy landscape—though technically, sunrise was at 2:37 AM, the low light and long polar twilight make the mornings feel magical and surreal.

On December 1, we celebrated Antarctica Day, marking the anniversary of the Antarctic Treaty of 1959, which set aside the continent exclusively for peaceful purposes. Today, over 50 nations recognize and uphold the Treaty.

We are at the Antarctic Peninsula, a land of jagged, ice-coated mountains and vast, remote wilderness. No one lives here permanently, though scattered research stations dot the landscape. The morning was spent scenic cruising through the Weddell Sea, with the Bellingshausen Sea to the west and the Scotia Sea to the north, offering breathtaking photo opportunities from the ship.

In the afternoon, we took a zodiac cruise in Hope Bay, a place that feels like the edge of the known world. Mountains rise like frozen cathedrals, glaciers crack in the distance, and the air is so still you can hear a penguin’s footsteps on the gravel.

Here we encountered Adelie penguins, one of Antarctica’s most iconic species.

 

Classic black-and-white, full of personality, and perfectly adapted to the ice, they have bright white chests, black heads, and striking white eye rings that give them a permanently wide-eyed expression.

Smaller than gentoo penguins, they are expert swimmers and divers, and utterly charming. 

A typical Seabourn moment capped the afternoon: our zodiac approached the shore, only to be “blocked” by looked like a pirate boat.

Our guide joked, “Oh-oh, I think I brought you to the wrong place!”  But team passed to our boat glasses of champagne.

Drifting past Antarctic icebergs with champagne in hand is the kind of moment that reminds you: true luxury lies not in excess, but in intention—even in the most remote place on Earth.

December 2, Antarctica

 

 

Snow fell heavier as the morning went on, but the wildlife didn’t mind us at all – we returned to the ship looking like snowmen!

 

 

 

In the evening, were booked on a submersible dive 60 meters below in the seabed, in Seabourn’s Cruise Sub 7–300.
The underwater world was breathtaking, and we received a certificate to mark this unforgettable adventure.

 

 

December 3, Antarctica

Today we were originally scheduled for a zodiac tour in Chiriguano Bay, Brabant Island, but strong winds prevented us from disembarking. Instead, the captain steered the ship to Wilhelmina Bay, where calmer waters awaited.

Along the way, we were treated to sightings of numerous orca whales, and even two penguins riding an iceberg!  The sea was so calm at Wilhelmina Bay that the expedition leader organized a polar plunge, with 96 guests and six crew members taking the icy dip, though we passed on that.

In the afternoon, a zodiac tour at Orne Harbor was planned, but snow and strong winds prompted a last-minute change. Instead, we landed at Cuverville Island, a protected site under the Antarctic Treaty and a major breeding ground for Gentoo penguins, home to an estimated 7,000 breeding pairs. Named after French Vice Admiral J.M.A. Cavelier de Cuverville, the island offered stunning scenery and the perfect opportunity to walk through the snow and observe these charismatic birds up close.

Everyone was thoroughly enjoying the wild, windswept beauty of Antarctica.

December 4, Antarctica

Today we cruised by Paradise Bay, one of the most famous and photogenic sites on the Antarctic Peninsula. It earned its name because early explorers found it so beautiful it seemed almost unreal.

We were fortunate to spot a leopard seal and numerous humpback whales, while the mirror-calm waters reflected glaciers, mountains, and icebergs, creating scenes straight out of a postcard.

Strong winds this morning led to the cancellation of our visit to Damoy Point, so much for waking up early! The expedition team moved the ship to another location, and while we hoped to go ashore today, even if we did not, the scenery from the ship is spectacular. On a lighter note, I managed to squeeze in a hair appointment with my favorite stylist, a little luxury in the midst of the Antarctic wilderness.

December 5, Antarctica

We sailed around Davis Island and saw Chinstrap penguins, easily recognizable by the narrow black band under their heads that looks like a helmet.

These charismatic birds inhabit various islands and shores throughout the Southern Pacific and Antarctic Oceans.

The weather deteriorated, but we were still able to tour by zodiac through snow and wind, navigating a surreal, monochromatic landscape of glaciers, caves, and dramatic mountains. We even heard the distant rumble of glacier calving, a reminder of the raw power of this environment.

The challenging conditions added a profound dimension to our Antarctic experience. Standing in the wind, cutting straight through our modern Helly Hansen parkas, it was humbling to consider what Shackleton, Amundsen, and other early explorers endured—all in wool, canvas, and hope. Returning to the ship for a hot shower and dinner was both comforting and deeply satisfying after a day in the wild.

December 6, Antarctica

What a difference a day makes! After yesterday’s snow, today brought sunny skies, 37°F, and calm waters as we cruised the magnificent fjords of Andvord Bay by zodiac. Along the way, we spotted whales and a crabeater seal, enjoying the serene beauty of the Antarctic Peninsula.

In the afternoon, we landed at Neko Bay to observe penguins up close.

The landscape is crisscrossed with “penguin highways”, natural corridors marked by footprints and streaks of guano, guiding the birds between breeding grounds and feeding areas.

We carefully stayed clear of these paths, respecting their right of way and preserving these essential routes.

 

Our last day in Antarctica was a day of unparalleled beauty. We witnessed three glaciers, a penguin rookery, seals, and over 30 humpback whales in every direction—it truly felt like a dream come true.

 

One of the most magical days of my life: waking up to bright blue skies, glaciers everywhere, and an incredible display of wildlife—humpback whales breaching, bubble-net feeding, fin-slapping, and tailing, while penguins, seals, and seabirds moved across the landscape. Thank you, Seabourn Venture, for making this once-in-a-lifetime experience possible.

It was warm and sunny day, the perfect way to close our Antarctic adventure.

Back on board, we celebrated the departure Seabourn style—with caviar and champagne, before preparing for our two-day sail through the Drake Passage to Ushuaia tomorrow.

December 6 – 9

Next two days we were sailing in Drake Channel. As we sailed through the Drake Passage, one of the most dynamic ocean regions on Earth, we encountered the confluence of three major bodies of water: the Atlantic, Pacific, and Southern Oceans. This meeting of currents creates a constantly shifting mosaic of waves, swells, and water temperatures, making the Drake Passage both a challenging crossing and a spectacularly dynamic environment.

Yet we were fortunate—the channel was calm, and we experienced no sea sickness during this legendary crossing.

We arrived Ushuaia on December 8 in the evening, back to civilization. With the sun setting around 11 PM, we managed a brief exploration of the port, though many stores were closed.

Seabourn’s exceptional logistics made travel effortless: they chartered two planes to Buenos Aires, collected our checked heavy suitcases from the ship the night before, and delivered them to Ushuaia to fly to Buenos Aires Ezeiza Airport, allowing us to travel light with carry-on only. We received them in EZE airport. Boarding passes and check-in were handled directly on board—a truly seamless experience.

On December 9, after a final breakfast aboard Seabourn Venture, we said our heartfelt goodbyes to the wonderful staff who had cared for us throughout the 42-day journey. We then boarded buses to the airport and flew four hours to the warmth of Buenos Aires. This ended an extraordinary expedition spanning the Amazon, South Georgia, and Antarctica—a journey filled with remarkable wildlife encounters, breathtaking landscapes, and memories that will last a lifetime.

Closing impressions

On this voyage, covering an estimated 5,500 miles in a straight line, and likely over 6,000 nautical miles when accounting for scenic detours and zodiac excursions, we crossed three countries, two continents, and unforgettable island destinations – the Falklands, South Georgia, and the Antarctic Peninsula. We crossed four time zones (even my phone got confused, thinking we were in New Zealand tomorrow!) and traversed the equator back and forth.

We experienced wildly different climates—from the humid Amazonian rainforests to subtropical Rio, cool Montevideo, and the icy sub-Antarctic islands—while witnessing some of the planet’s most remote and awe-inspiring landscapes. Along the way, we sailed through three oceans—the Atlantic, Pacific, and Southern—and journeyed from the Equator all the way to the South Pole.

Despite the remoteness of this expedition, life on board was remarkably comfortable. The food was delicious, and internet connectivity worked reliably, except for one day in Antarctica. I was even able to work and hold meetings with clients over WhatsApp, blending adventure and productivity in a way I never imagined possible.

Antarctica and South Georgia exceeded my expectation. I just thought to step there, seeing ice glaciers and wildlife and that would be enough. But …  The silence, the light, the penguin highways, the fjords will stay with me forever. Coming back to “normal life” feels like stepping out of a dream too soon.  It might not be “goodbye” but “until we meet again”.

Signature Moments

Seabourn knows how to make every moment unforgettable. From passing famous icebergs, watching the sunset over Rio, to toasting Shackleton at his grave, and encountering “pirates and penguins” with champagne and caviar, the experiences are unpredictable, delightful, and always memorable. Even something as simple as perfect weather becomes a signature moment – reminding you that on a Seabourn expedition, magic can happen anywhere, anytime.

Who This Voyage Is For

Ideal for travelers who:

  • Seek true expedition experiences without sacrificing luxury
  • Value expert-led exploration, lectures, and meaningful enrichment
  • Enjoy wildlife, nature, photography, and immersive learning
  • Appreciate spacious suites, refined dining, and anticipatory service
  • Prefer a small-ship, intimate atmosphere over large, crowded cruises
  • Are comfortable with light physical activity, including Zodiac landings and kayaking

May not be for travelers who

  • Want a traditional cruise with casinos, nightlife, or Broadway-style entertainment
  • Prefer highly structured daily schedules
  • Are uncomfortable with weather-dependent itineraries
  • Have limited mobility that makes Zodiac landings challenging

Why I Recommend It

For travelers new to expedition cruising, Seabourn Venture offers a perfect introduction: the ship combines the safety, comfort, and service of a luxury cruise with adventure, wildlife, and immersive learning of a true expedition. With only 240 guests, every experience—from Zodiac landings to lectures and optional submersible dives—is accessible, personal, and unforgettable, making it ideal for first-timers or luxury travelers stepping into expedition cruising.

Zodiacs

The question often I was asked if it easy to tour in zodiacs? We are not athletic anymore but we did not have problems entering and exiting zodiacs, even with rough seas. As well as we did not have any issues ride submersible.

Zodiacs are suitable for anyone mobile enough to step in and out of the boat with team assistance holding guests by “seaman grip”. Some landings were wet; we exited zodiacs in the water. We were trained in how to exit and enter on wet landings as well.

Boots were provided for that, but you bring your own waterproof pants.

The ship provided us with Helly Hansen two-layers parkas, hats and waterproof backpacks. These were for us to keep. There were boots for us to use (but not to take them home). Boots were kept in the mud room. They were warm and comfortable for Antarctica and South Georgia. We brought our own waterproof pants and gloves.

We did not ride kayaks, and we did not do polar plunge.

To close, I would like to share a poem by our expedition guide and educator, Robert Egelstaff 

Antarctic Ambassadors

We came to Antarctica Impressions of Splendour
First on our bucket list to complete an agenda.
On fast, stable ships with accurate weather
Crossing Drake in a day without any bother

Nothing prepared us for bombardment of senses
Artillery salvoes, crashing ice, roar of avalanches.
Black and white birds with gimlets of colours
Slivers of cerulean from deep in the glaciers

Wheeling clouds – shags, terns and fulmors,
Crystalline coronets sparkle on the waters
High in the sky the clouds form a lens
Above rocks where whalers were flensed.

Bubble-netting clouds of krill rising to fee
Arched tail, perform breech meeting our need
Savour aroma from rookery of gentoos
Waddling, bustling squawking – to amuse.

We see and abundance, pure cold and ice white
Feel the cut of the frosted knife in the night
Follow the blows, waves, and albatross wings
Hear calls of the gulls and deep hollow rings

We bleed as we leave, our hearts they have turned
Past view of the world will forever be burned
Seared by the ice, a new vision we know
Antarctic Ambassadors forever… we grow.

Copyrights  2026, Sophia’s Travel, EMCO Travel LLC